Transplants are recommended because the seeds will germinate poorly if you start them in the field. Further, methods used to start other vegetables in the greenhouse often result in failure with seedless watermelons. (Seedless watermelons have special needs for good germination.)

1. Soak peat pellets thoroughly and let them drain 24 hours before planting. (Unlike ordinary watermelons, these seeds have an air space inside that can pick up water and rot the seeds if seeds are kept too wet.) Do not soak seeds in water.

2. Plant 2 seeds per pellet at least 1/2 inch deep. If seeds are inserted pointed side up, you will have less trouble with seed coats that clamp around seedlings. (Seedless watermelons have a problem with seed coats that clamp around sprouting plants, stopping further growth. Seed coats that don't come off during germination must be removed by hand immediately after emergence.)

3. After seeding, cover flats with a sheet of clear poly plastic to maintain uniform moisture. This is important.

4. Maintain a temperature of 85°F for 48 hours. This is a critical period for germination. Do not allow pellets to become dry but do not soak them if water is needed. The plastic sheet covering should hold adequate moisture level for this critical period, but check by feel to be sure. Do not put trays in a pan of water during this germination period.

5. As soon as some seedlings start to emerge--say 10%-- remove the plastic. Begin watering as needed. Drop temperature to 75°F. Remove seed coats by hand as mentioned earlier, immediately after emergence. Thinning to one plant per pot is done at this time to improve size of melons at harvest. Plants will be ready for transplanting in about 3 weeks. Do not grow plants larger than 3 true leaves. Warmer temperatures stimulate spindly growth. Shading or cloudy weather may also cause excessively spindly growth.

*Treat seed with Captan to prevent damping-off.