Hardy Lilies From Seed: Lily seeds may be sown in a bed early in late autumn or early winter. Cover seed to four times their thickness. Some species germinate in 6-8 weeks, while others lie dormant until the next spring. (See Park's Flower Book, Lily Section, for germination times.) Many species germinate the following spring from seeds sown in the fall before heavy frost.

The refrigerator treatment is a good way to substitute these natural conditions. This may be accomplished by placing the seeds in a tray with water and put in the freezer section of your refrigerator for three weeks. After the freezing time has been completed, bring frozen flats into germinating temperatures of 60°.

Seedling bulbs should be taken up and set in rows several inches apart. Lily bulbs require a light, rich, porous soil composed of peat, leaf mold, and sandy loam that is perfectly drained. Good drainage is essential since the plants like plenty of water, especially when the beds are developing. The plants prefer partial shade and should not be exposed to strong winds. Most lilies require 3-4 years to flower from seeds.

Cultural Instructions For Lily Bulbs

Soils and Location: Lilies must have perfect drainage such as a gentle slope can provide. Air circulation, too, is important for a good breeze can keep many garden pests and diseases away. If your site is level and the soil heavy, then dig a round hole to a depth of 18 inches and width of 12 inches and fill the hole with 6 inches of gravel on the bottom and a mixture of one-half sandy loam, one-fourth leaf mold, and one-fourth river sand. Place some extra sand under and around the bulb and take care not to damage their roots. Soils with a pH in the range of 6- 6.5 are preferred.

Sun or Shade: Lilies need sunlight, at least until 2 p.m. Filtered sunlight or semi-shade may bring out the more delicate colors, but they tend to make weak stems and soft flowers. Do not plant near house walls, walks, or drives that reflect sunlight or heat.

Depth of Planting: L. candidum, "Cascade Strain" and "White Elf" should be planted with not more than one inch of settled soil over the top of the bulbs. All others need not more than 4 inches of soil over them

Mulch and Ground Cover: Lilies are gross feeders and root deeply. They need a porous, well-aerated soil, rich in humus and well-balanced plant food. They like a good mulch of well- rotted cow manure, rich compost or decaying leaf mold, and this can be applied several times during the growing season. The mulch keeps the soil cool, discourages weak growth and eliminates the need for surface cultivation which might hurt the stem roots. Shallow-rooted ground cover keeps the ground shaded and is beneficial. Do not expect your Lilies to compete with strong growing perennials or shrubs.

Cutting Flowers: Like all plants, lilies need their stems and foliage to build for next year's growth. Cutting the flowers only, preventing them from setting seed, is beneficial. Cutting the foliage is harmful in direct proportion to the amount taken. Cutting stems with foliage year after year will definitely kill the plant.

Fertilizers: Natural fertilizers, such as well-rotted cow manure, are ideal. A handful of nitrogenous fertilizer scattered over every few feet, a pound of wood ashes per every twenty square feet, and such applications, repeated two or three times during the growing season, will help keep the lilies strong and healthy. If your soil and water are alkaline, then two or three times during the growing season, scatter a pinch or two of agricultural sulfur over the soil surface and water it in. Peat moss, being slightly acid, is good for lilies. It provides an ideal medium for the stem roots when used as a mulch.

On Arrival: Lily bulbs are never completely dormant. If slightly limp after their long trip, place them in wet peat moss for a few days. They will soon freshen up and should then be planted immediately. Never plant new bulbs where other lilies have failed to grow and never plant in heavy, soggy soil. They cannot be treated like tulip and daffodil bulbs which can be dried and go completely dormant. Drainage is Paramount.

Pot Culture: The soil mixture must be loose and porous. Two parts sandy loam, one of leaf mold, and one of sand is good. An inch of gravel should be placed in the bottom for drainage. Fill the pot half full of soil mix, add a handful of sand, set the bulb on the sand, then surround with more sand. The pot is then filled with soil mix, watered, labeled, and placed in a cool place until spring.

Spraying: Control aphids and fungus diseases with the same sprays used for roses. Nicotine sulfate (Black-Leaf 40) and Malathion will control aphids readily. The all purpose garden dusts will control most diseases as well as most insect pests.

Availability of Lily Bulbs: Candidum bulbs are available in mid to late August. Most other lilies arrive from our growers in late October and will be sent as soon as they come in. Allow 1-2 weeks for delivery time. If there is danger of your ground freezing prior to the delivery time, as noted above, you should prepare your beds in advance. Put a heavy mulch of straw or leaves on the beds to prevent freezing. This will allow you to plant your lilies on arrival simply by removing the mulch.